top of page

The Quintessential Bywater Po-Boy: A Guide’s Devotion to Frady’s

  • Writer: Jeff Shyman
    Jeff Shyman
  • Jul 7
  • 3 min read

Updated: Jul 21

The Map of My Last Meal on Earth

There is a lot of joy in my job. If you asked any New Orleanian what they would like to spend an afternoon doing, you would get a huge variety of answers... eating, drinking, socializing, costuming, playing music, second lining, fishing off the canal... our lives are good here... but I'd guess the top answer would be "telling captive strangers where we love to eat."

I live the dream. At every stop on our culinary tour, I repeat, "This is one of my favorite things." and it is no lie. The crawfish pies from Cajun Seafood, the crab mac and cheese from The Salted Pearl at St. Roch Market, the fried chicken beignets from Loretta's Praline's... all are my favorites and all dishes I eat with my family, and all would happily be a part of any last meal of mine on this earth.

Visualizing the Quintessential Po-Boy Shop

But Frady's stands out because Frady's is a favorite meal before it is even served to you. Even approaching the building, I often tell my customers to visualize what they think a 55-year-old New Orleans neighborhood po-boy shop will look like.

When we arrive, it is usually even more classic than they imagined: the timeless, welcoming yellow and the art that would be called folk art if we bothered to call it anything.

A Neighborhood Badge

But it’s the Fradys themselves, and the wonderful cast they have assembled through the years. Kirk and Kerry are, to me, a reminder of what made me fall in love with New Orleans 30 years ago, and what I hope will remain through the many changes we go through. Everyone is welcomed. Everyone is greeted with a smile. Everyone feels special, like they are the most important customer that ever walked in—because to everyone who works at Frady's, all the customers are.

They just sell po-boys and meat plates, but their T-shirts are adorned by everyone throughout the city as a code. People wear band shirts, golf brand shirts, or football team shirts to let everyone know what subculture they identify with and want to be known for. When I see a Frady’s shirt on someone I don’t know, I immediately know what they are saying, and it's not about the food... they are saying they love that some of what makes New Orleans special is still here. Maybe Mr. Okra is gone, but Frady's is holding the light strong still.

Oh Yeah, The Food is Lagniappe

Oh, yeah, before I get misty-eyed about the culture, let’s talk about the counter. Their po-boys are some of the absolute best in the city (and look, no single po-boy is the best; anyone who declares that is either a liar or simple-minded).

But what they do behind that counter is a masterclass in the classics:

  • The Hot Sausage: This is my personal hill to die on, and if I eat enough of them, I may.. It’s my favorite hot sausage patty in the entire city. It's got a little perfect, aggressive spice, seared right and served on Leidenheimer bread that's crisp on the outside and soft enough inside to suck up the tasty grease (still, though, grab extra napkins) without falling apart. Get it with cheese because that's just what one does.

  • The Roast Beef debris: This is a glorious, messy masterpiece. It's not neat deli slices; it’s slow-cooked, falling-apart beef swimming in a rich, dark gravy. Ordering this is a commitment—you can’t even walk out the door with it unless you’ve grabbed at least three handfuls of napkins, way more than the Hot Sausage calls for. because that gravy is going to tattoo you, which sounds good, until someone like me comes by and licks your arm.

  • The Fried Shrimp: Perfectly seasoned, lightly battered, and fried to order so the shrimp stay plump and snappy instead of turning into rubber. That's the fine line that not every Po Boy place masters. Dressed with shredded lettuce, pickles, and mayo, it’s exactly what a neighborhood po-boy is supposed to be. I mean you can't go wrong with Meatballs or Catfish or Oysters. Throw a dart at the menu, you can't lose at this game If you want to experience why all of this neighborhood food of the Bywater, Marigny and Treme means so much to me, hjoin us for a roll on two wheels. Book your spot on our daily New Orleans Culinary Bike Tour today, and let us show you why spots like Frady's are what PO boy dreams are made of.. If you'd rather go it alone, it's an easy city, start at Washington Square Park and every direction will lead to something fun and/or delicious!


Recent Posts

See All

Comments


bottom of page